The scent of deep-fried dough is a familiar part of Icelandic life. In homes, bakeries, and even supermarkets, the sight of bags filled with twisted golden pastries, kleinur, marks an everyday treat that connects the country to a broader Northern European tradition.
From Danish roots to Icelandic identity
The story of kleinur, sometimes known as klenät, klenä, klejne, and under other names across the Nordic countries, begins much earlier than Iceland’s modern cafés. The word itself comes from the Danish “klejne,” meaning “slender” or “narrow,” a reference to the shape of the pastry. Going back further, its Low German ancestor, “Kleinet,” means “little object” or “present.” The pastry’s tangled path through languages reflects its journey through Europe and into Icelandic kitchens.
Mentions of similar pastries appear as early as the 14th century in Denmark, and they show up in both Danish and Icelandic cookbooks from the 18th and 19th centuries. A Swedish poem from 1800 describes klenäter served at a dinner party, and the pastries are featured in classic Scandinavian Christmas tales. Over time, each region adapted the recipe, with Iceland embracing it as a year-round favourite.
Making and sharing kleinur
Though versions of this pastry are eaten in many countries, known as faworki in Poland, krepli in Russia, fattigmann in Norway, and even calzones rotos as far away as Chile, in Iceland, their preparation retains some unique touches. The dough, made from flour, egg yolks, sugar, and fat, is rolled out, then cut into strips. These are then slit down the centre. By threading one end through the slit, the signature knot shape is achieved. Traditionally, Icelanders used sheep tallow for frying, though today oil is common. The cut strips are often made using a special tool called a kleinujárn, designed for that purpose.
While elsewhere in Scandinavia these pastries are seasonal, especially linked with Christmas, in Iceland kleinur are an everyday treat sold both singly in bakeries and in larger bags at shops. While Scandinavian cousins might include spices like cardamom or even a dash of cognac, Icelandic kleinur are typically eaten plain, though, as with many foods, traditions can change from kitchen to kitchen.
With their golden crust and distinctive twisted form, kleinur are often compared to the American cruller, yet their deep roots and adaptability have made them a quiet staple of Icelandic tables and coffee times for generations.
Sources
- Wikipedia
- Wikipedia (Icelandic) in Icelandic
